2025 Squarebody Buying Guide

BEFORE YOU TEXT

MANUAL TRANSMISSION

SM465 all the way would be the best option, and it is very likely to have it if it is a manual. There's really no manual to stay away from, but that one is the best option.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

Either the TH350, TH400, or 700R4. The 350 and 400 are both 3 speed, solid transmissions. The 700R4 is a 4-speed, and although decent, it is becoming more difficult to rebuild than the other two in recent years.

TRANSFER CASE

The NP203 is a full-time chain-driven transfer case built by New Process. If you don't like the full-time aspect, there is a relatively cheap kit to convert it to part-time.

The NP205 is an indestructible part-time gear-driven transfer case built by New Process. It is louder and almost as heavy as the NP203 and NP208 combined, but with a nearly indestructible build and reliable gearing, it became sought after.

The NP208 is a part-time chain-driven transfer case built by New Process. It was not as rugged as its predecessor but was still decently strong and reliable while weighing much less.

GAS ENGINE

The 400 is one to stay away from; it is plagued with overheating issues.

The 350, 327, and 305 are the best options to end up with as they are all from the same small-block Chevy family, and many parts and upgrades are readily available.

The 454 is a commitment, not a bad engine, but awful on fuel economy. It is part of the big-block Chevy family.

There is also the straight 6 250 or 292, which aren't bad, quite strong and reliable but underpowered.

DIESEL ENGINE

There is only the 6.2 Detroit Diesel, which was fuel-efficient and reliable if maintained properly. Although they were also loud and very underpowered (130hp, 240ft/lbs).

Some may have been swapped with the 6.5 Diesel that was offered after 1992. These were turbocharged, so they offered more power with nearly the same fuel efficiency.

If it meets your liking so far, let's move on. You're gonna have to take the buyer's word on engine and transmission condition.

WHAT TO CHECK OVER TEXT

LEGAL

Title? A lot of these are sitting around without one; make sure it has one. If it doesn't have one and you want to buy it anyway, it's always good to get the VIN and check with your local law enforcement to see if it is stolen or has a lien.

CONDITION

If it is really far away, maybe ask for a video of the engine running, the rocker panels, etc.

WHEN YOU GET THERE

ELECTRONICS

If it has a key, see if it will turn over without the key. Some ignition cylinders fail and allow starting without the key present; it's cheap but an annoying fix.

Most washer pumps don't work/aren't there. Bonus points if yours does.

For Blazers/Jimmys, see if the back glass is there and see if it rolls down. If it is manual, it will just have what looks like a latch on the back, but it is actually the window crank. If it has a keyhole, you put the key in and turn it, and it rolls down automatically. If no keyhole, you pull it out and flip it out, and it turns into a window crank. Most automatic ones do not function, many manual ones do not function, and the back glass must be rolled down to access the tailgate latch; it must be rolled down all the way for the safety to release and allow the tailgate to open.

Test blinkers, a lot of them just turn on and don't blink, some do nothing, and some blink fast. Sometimes it's a cheap and easy flasher replacement, and sometimes it's a wiring disaster.

BODY

Check the very middle of the hood as if you were looking at the side of the truck. Some trucks develop the "taco hood," where it begins to crease right there. It earned the name as some trucks "tacoed" their hood as it folded in the crease. This can be corrected if it hasn't gotten too bad yet.

Check rocker panels (under the door); these are almost always rusty and falling apart. It can be corrected, but it will take some work.

Check right above the wheel wells; they are almost always rusty and falling apart. It can be corrected, but it will take some work in some cases. If the truck has fender flares, there is a 99% chance there is rust behind them.

Check under the carpet or floor mats if you can, the floorboards on these bad boys love to rust. This can be corrected, but most people just treat the rust to stop and cover it up or replace the floor panels.

Check the cab corners. These can fill up with water with no way to drain, expediting rusting. These are typically never noticed until it's too late and must be replaced.

Check the frame. Most are going to be covered in surface rust, but some begin ot have integral rust around the rear and front suspension assemblies. If it has flakes, or if you can push it at all with your hand, it has become integral.

ENGINE

Did they remove smog? Most will just tell you if they did, but to check, just see if there is a black canister in the front by the radiator, and that is plugged in to a few vacuum lines. If it is removed, it can help with performance, but it eliminates it from any stock competitions.

Any branding other than "GM" or the bowtie on the intake manifold or water pump? It has been messed with at least a little bit.

When you get it started, see if it idles low on startup, and how it sounds as it warms up and idles. If it isn't just a decently smooth "mmmm" and it idles low for a minute or two after startup, it may be cammed, but that isn't a surefire way to tell.

If it has TBI, I'm sorry. That is a whole different story.

If it has a carburetor and it has fueling issues that can typically be fixed with a carb tune-up or replacement.

It should drive and shift smoothly after warming up. There is no "50, 40, 30 years old"; these vehicles ran correctly once, and they can run correctly again.

INTERIOR

Check for hanging wires; a couple are typically just them falling from the dash, but more than that is probably a wiring hack job (for some reason).

Cracked, sunburnt dash? Wobbly steering wheel? Glove box stay in when you open it? Seat adjustable or rusted shut?

Is the radio there? If not, has the radio hole been cut open to fit a modern radio, or does it still have the small square hole and two small holes? This changes if you can get a cheap radio from Walmart (if the hole is cut) or if you have to get a classic radio from online somewhere. Cutting the hole is frowned upon but has been practiced for decades.

COMMON ISSUES

Sagging or difficult-to-close doors can easily be repaired with a cheap and easy fix.

Damaged seats, seats are widely available with greatly ranging prices.

Vacuum leaks, which can be fixed with cheap vacuum hose and connection replacements.